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Are you getting wetter as we sit here?

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Well, yeah, because it just keeps coming in 
over this side.

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Yeah. I think we might not be very well 
inflated.

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I am so sorry, ladies.

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My pants are wet.

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Your pants are very wet.

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And that was my first time in Lake Huron in a 
slowly deflating kayak.

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You know that feeling of discovering 
something new about someone you've loved for

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years? Someone who you thought that you knew?

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Everything about the places we live can be 
like that too.

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The Great Lakes are imprinted on our 
identity.

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For a lot of us who live in Michigan.

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The state touches four of the five Great 
Lakes,

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and many of us have made significant memories 
in and on and near at least one of the lakes.

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But there's still so much to learn about our 
huge inland seas.

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And I remember the first time I came here, 
I'm flying into Alpena and you are on a

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plane, and you can't see the other side of 
the lake.

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And it blew my mind. Like I had no idea the 
Great Lakes were as big as they are.

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I feel like every part of the lakes have like 
a different identity.

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You're listening to Beyond the Shore from 
Michigan Public.

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I'm Rebecca Williams. This is the first of 
five stories about the Great Lakes.

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One story per lake. A snapshot that tells a 
story about each of the lakes.

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A little microcosm of what makes each lake 
unique.

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Chapter one Lake Huron the Great Lakes hold 
more than 20% of the fresh surface water in

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the entire world. If you live here or you've 
been here,

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you've probably gone to the beach.

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Maybe you've gone fishing or gotten water up 
your nose.

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But there's so much more to the lakes when 
you look below.

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Like shipwrecks, there are thousands of 
shipwrecks in the Great Lakes.

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I'm sure you've heard of the Edmund 
Fitzgerald.

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That good ship and true was a bone to be 
chewed when the gales of November came early.

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That famous ship went down in a massive storm 
in Lake Superior in 1975,

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killing all 29 men aboard.

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Each of the Great Lakes has sunken ships, 
but in Lake Huron there's a place nicknamed

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Shipwreck Alley.

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Starting route to Thunder Bay National Marine 
Sanctuary.

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My coworker, Jody Westrick and I took a road 
trip north from Ann Arbor to check it out.

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And now we're going over the river, 
which looks like it goes out into Lake Huron.

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Yep. That's it out there.

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It looks like there's a lot of boats out 
there today or something.

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Or maybe those are some of the the, 
the little moorings where they mark all the

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shipwrecks.

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The destination is on your left.

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Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary.

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We're here.

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Arrived.

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Oh my God. Look at all these geese. Don't get 
too close,

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Reb.

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We pull into the Sanctuary Museum parking lot 
in front of a navy blue building,

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and we give the geese a lot of space.

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If you think of Michigan like the palm of 
your right hand,

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the Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary is 
up at the tip of the pointer finger.

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It's the very first freshwater marine 
sanctuary ever designated in the U.S..

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One of the uniqueness about marine sanctuary 
is that we protect America's ocean and Great

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Lakes treasures.

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Jeff Gray is the sanctuary superintendent.

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And those treasures are the coral reefs of 
Florida Keys or the shipwrecks of Thunder

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Bay. They're below the waterline.

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And when you come to those places, 
you don't see them automatically.

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Ours is hidden. So we need to do a little 
more work to connect people to them.

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The Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary is 
4300mi² of protected area in the lake full of

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shipwrecks.

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Through a historical record, 
we've we've scoured the archives and we've

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found historical evidence that about 200 
vessels have sank here through archaeology

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and science. We're out searching the lake.

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We've located about 100.

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And there's still about another hundred to 
find.

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On this warm day in late September.

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The surface of Lake Huron is so calm and 
clear,

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it's a perfect day to paddle out to see a 
shipwreck called the Portland.

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It's a two masted schooner that sank in a 
really bad storm in 1877.

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To see it, Jodi and I take a ride out to the 
lake with Sarah Morrison and Sophie Stewart

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with the sanctuary. Sophie Parks the big six 
wheeled truck in the lot at the edge of the

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woods near the beach.

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All right, we've got life jackets.

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We've got air pumps, we've got paddles.

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We've got everything for an adventure.

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Always prepared for an adventure.

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Okay, we are going to blow some more air into 
this kayak.

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What if it deflates while we're out there?

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You know, that's why we got the dry bags.

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Throw it in, throw it in.

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And that is what we call foreshadowing.

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Jodi and I grab a handle on either side of 
the kayak and start down the wooded path to

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the beach. I don't want to drag him in the 
poison ivy.

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Or poison.

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Ivy. I think so.

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Oh, no.

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Right now we are dragging an inflatable kayak 
down to the shore of Lake Huron.

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And it's a tandem kayak.

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So Jodi and I will be in this together.

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So our fates are intertwined.

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We have the beautiful, 
wide, sandy beach almost entirely to

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ourselves. I take off my shoes and I roll up 
my jeans and wade into the shockingly warm

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water with Sarah, Jodi, 
and Sophie.

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It's really so shallow.

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Yeah.

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Yeah. So when when we say you can walk the 
majority of the way to the shipwreck,

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we're not kidding. A lot of the days this is 
what would happen is a ship would find

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shelter in a bay like the Portland and then 
be driven further inland because of a storm

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resulting in wrecking on the rocks.

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Even in safe harbor from the storm.

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Wow. Okay, so it was really quite dangerous.

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Yeah. Oh, yeah. We have lots of salt water 
captains who talk about.

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It's more they've had more dangerous 
encounters on the Great Lakes than they have

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in salt water.

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Okay.

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Because of wave patterns out here, 
the waves don't have a lull in between.

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So when you've got waves, 
they're just going to get hit one after

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another after another.

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So that causes a lot of problems.

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And then around here, 
the limestone reefs that are so shallow.

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Sophie says this area includes the main 
shipping channel for ships to move between

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the lower lakes and the upper lakes.

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They would have to go past Thunder Bay.

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So it's kind of the natural turning point in 
Lake Huron.

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You've got hundreds of ships going back and 
forth.

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Collisions were a very common thing.

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And good weather or poor weather.

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Our storms come up very aggressively, 
as does our fog.

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And Lake Huron Can has reported waves up to 
30ft high.

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Jodi and I get into the kayak really 
carefully.

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We don't want to get our expensive equipment 
wet, but then just a few minutes after we've

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left the beach, everything goes sideways.

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Are you getting wetter as we sit here?

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Well, yeah, because it just keeps coming in 
over this side.

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Yeah. I think we might not be very well 
inflated.

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I am so sorry, ladies.

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My pants are wet.

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Your pants are very wet.

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Jodi jumps out soaking wet.

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So it's on to plan B. Jodi stays on shore and 
I climb onto Sarah's paddle board and sit

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cross-legged on the front while she paddles 
us out into the lake.

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Oh, look at that, sunshine.

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Oh, it's so beautiful.

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Now I feel like I should be singing to 
Rebecca.

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Like.

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Like we're in a gondola, 
right?

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Okay, so now you can see the clear water.

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Tons of rocks.

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It's so clear. We can see right to the 
bottom.

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Yeah. And the boy is right in front of us.

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And these boys not only make it easier to 
find the shipwreck so you can explore them,

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but also you're going to see, 
like, a yellow tow line on the buoys where

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you can easily anchor whether you have a boat 
or,

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you know, a lot of paddle boards and kayaks 
have those bungee cords you can tie directly

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up to it. The Portland is a schooner or 
former schooner,

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I should say. And there was a very bad storm 
October kind of late 1800s.

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And that storm pushed the boat closer and 
closer to shore so that the rocks actually

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did start to tear holes in it, 
leading to it sinking.

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So thankfully, the crew was able to survive.

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So often when you're close to shore like 
that, that is the benefit of being washed

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ashore in a storm, but we're getting closer, 
so hopefully we'll be seeing something in

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just a moment. I think it might actually be 
in.

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Oh, there's part of it.

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Oh, yeah. Oh, that's so cool.

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Oh my gosh. Okay.

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Oh, we're literally just directly gets old.

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Like I'm looking out in front of you. 
Rebecca. Do you see that?

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Yeah. That's amazing. The thick wooden beams 
of the Portland emerge below us,

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looking like railroad tracks under the water.

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And so imagine snorkeling this.

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You definitely you know, 
we always say, please don't touch,

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but you can get very, 
very close to this wreck.

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And this is one of the things about Lake 
Huron with shipwrecks, right? As well that

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you have some shallow shipwrecks close to 
shore.

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Yeah. You know, probably in all the Great 
Lakes we have that.

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But you know, us being a marine sanctuary, 
we highlight our shipwrecks a bit more than

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maybe other parts of the Great Lakes.

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Where maybe it's more of a word of mouth or, 
you know,

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because there are shipwrecks all over the 
Great Lakes, but here it is easier to

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recreate on them like this.

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Look at this. We're just sailing over these 
huge beams.

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Sarah paddles us back to shore.

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I get back to the beach and I find Jodi 
safely on land and drying out.

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She told me before that this is her favorite 
lake.

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Every time I come here, 
I'm always surprised about how clear the

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water is, and it just is so.

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Well, today it's very calm and peaceful, 
and I think most of the time when I've been

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here, it's been that way.

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And it just feels so soothing sitting here 
listening to the waves come in and looking at

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how beautiful it all is.

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For her. Like a lot of us, 
the experience of being at your favorite

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great lake. It's not just the lake itself, 
it's your memories of all the times that

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you've spent at the lake before.

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Every summer, for as long as I can remember, 
we would come up with our little pop up

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camper and we'd camp at Tawas Point State 
Park.

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I just remember spending days and days and 
days playing on the beach with my cousins,

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laying on the water, screaming like songs we 
learned in Girl Scouts,

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and just having the time of my life.

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And those are some of my favorite memories.

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And as Sophie Stewart explains, 
the Great Lakes are especially good at

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00:11:10,120 --> 00:11:12,560
preserving memories in the form of history.

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Lake Huron, obviously is our favorite because 
of the sanctuary,

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but all five of the Great Lakes, 
the cold, fresh,

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00:11:19,400 --> 00:11:22,840
deep water is what is preserving those 
wrecks.

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00:11:23,080 --> 00:11:26,760
So if you take a wooden shipwreck and sink it 
in the Atlantic Ocean,

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00:11:26,800 --> 00:11:29,240
say you're looking at a ship from the 1800s.

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00:11:29,520 --> 00:11:34,360
There are different microorganisms and 
creatures in warm,

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00:11:34,360 --> 00:11:39,720
salty water that will eat wood and 
deteriorate those shipwrecks a lot faster.

201
00:11:39,880 --> 00:11:42,840
Specifically teredo worms and other things 
like that.

202
00:11:43,120 --> 00:11:49,190
So we get shipwrecks off the Atlantic coast, 
where all that's left is the iron fastenings

203
00:11:49,190 --> 00:11:51,190
or cannons or cannonballs or things like 
that,

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00:11:51,190 --> 00:11:53,830
because all of the wood has literally been 
eaten away.

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00:11:54,230 --> 00:12:00,150
Whereas here those microorganisms and 
creatures can't survive in cold,

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00:12:00,150 --> 00:12:00,950
fresh water.

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00:12:00,990 --> 00:12:04,630
That means these Great Lakes shipwrecks are 
much more intact.

208
00:12:04,830 --> 00:12:09,430
One that's really famous in Lake Michigan is 
the Rouse Simmons or the Christmas tree ship.

209
00:12:10,030 --> 00:12:12,990
And that one would carry cargoes of Christmas 
trees from the U.P.

210
00:12:13,030 --> 00:12:18,150
down to Chicago. And that wreck still has the 
trunks of the Christmas trees of the last

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00:12:18,150 --> 00:12:19,350
cargo on board.

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00:12:22,110 --> 00:12:25,790
Sometimes artifacts disappear from shipwrecks 
in Lake Huron.

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00:12:26,030 --> 00:12:29,270
We'll hear where they often end up after this 
quick break.

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00:12:37,590 --> 00:12:38,910
This is beyond the shore.

215
00:12:38,950 --> 00:12:43,940
I'm Rebecca Williams. Scuba divers come to 
Lake Huron from all over to check out these

216
00:12:43,940 --> 00:12:47,620
shipwrecks. And so do maritime 
archaeologists.

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00:12:47,900 --> 00:12:52,420
That job is just what it sounds like someone 
who studies archaeology underwater.

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00:12:52,460 --> 00:12:57,580
Thunder Bay is really known for having 
exceptional levels of preservation on its

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00:12:57,580 --> 00:13:01,580
shipwrecks, so any underwater archaeologist 
is always excited about coming up to the

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00:13:01,580 --> 00:13:04,420
Great Lakes. So when the position came 
available,

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00:13:04,420 --> 00:13:07,260
I was I jumped on it even though I'd never 
been to Michigan before.

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00:13:07,340 --> 00:13:10,220
So my name is Andy Yoxtheimer.

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00:13:10,220 --> 00:13:14,580
I'm a resource protection specialist at 
Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary. So I'm

224
00:13:14,580 --> 00:13:19,300
from Reno, Nevada. So I grew up close to Lake 
Tahoe and I thought Lake Tahoe was a big

225
00:13:19,300 --> 00:13:23,220
lake. And I remember the first time I came 
here,

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00:13:23,220 --> 00:13:28,220
I flying into Alpena and you are on a plane 
and you can't see the other side of the lake.

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And it blew my mind. Like, 
I had no idea the Great Lakes were as big as

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they are. It's also really cool interacting 
with the Great Lakes and the people here.

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They have such a strong connection to the 
water and connection to the lake.

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Whichever lake they're on, 
I feel like every part of the lakes have,

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like a different identity.

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Lake Huron is definitely it feels a little 
bit more.

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It feels a little quieter, 
a little bit more wild.

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We're meeting up with Andy on a research boat 
that's tied to a dock at the Marina.

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Early the next morning, 
she's about to go do something called

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multibeam mapping.

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And what it does is it sends sound down into 
the water column.

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And then basically like echolocation, 
how long it takes for that sound to reach our

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boat again. That'll tell us water depth.

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And we use that to get really high definition 
maps of the sanctuary.

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We protect submerged cultural resources.

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So we're always looking for more shipwrecks. 
So that's something that we're always keeping

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an eye out for on the maps as well.

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Andy says a lot of shipwrecks they haven't 
found yet are probably in the deeper waters

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of the bay. She says even though shipwrecks 
have a better shot at surviving in the Great

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Lakes, there are some challenges.

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Ice can be a large issue for our really 
shallow shipwrecks.

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We call it fillet of schooner because all of 
our shallow shipwrecks are quite broken down.

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Also, we deal a lot with zebra and quagga 
mussels.

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Those have become a huge issue in the Great 
Lakes.

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Most of our shipwrecks have are covered in 
mussels.

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But then another factor that we're always 
looking at is the human interaction with

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shipwrecks. We want people to dive them.

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We want people to be on these shipwrecks.

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We want them to see them.

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So we really feel that like until you can see 
something,

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you're not going to want to protect it. So we 
want people to interact with these sites. We

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want them to have a personal connection.

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Of course, the flip side of that is, 
you know,

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the more people you're allowing onto sites, 
unfortunately,

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the more likely it is that some artifacts are 
going to disappear.

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How can you get the artifacts back?

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Unfortunately, a lot of times they end up on 
like Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist.

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So I know recently some of our the timbers 
from one of our shipwrecks were recently

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recovered because someone had tried to sell 
them on Facebook Marketplace.

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So yeah, it's a constant struggle trying to 
find these artifacts again.

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And unfortunately, a lot of them are not 
recovered.

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The team at Thunder Bay is also collecting 
water samples that they send to Reagan

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Herrera. She's a research ecologist at the 
Great Lakes Environmental Research

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Laboratory. We lovingly call the instrument 
Richard.

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Just to make it easy and fun within the lab 
when we're doing our measurements,

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because short wise, it's DIC.

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Because it's dissolved inorganic carbon.

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Yep. Got it. Exactly. So that's why we were 
like,

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we can't really put that right.

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That acronym might not be great.

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So let's call him Richard.

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Reagan and her team are using Richard to 
study freshwater acidification in Lake Huron.

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It's a process related to our changing 
climate,

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and it's something that scientists think 
might affect the shipwrecks.

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Within the atmosphere.

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Co2 in particular is increasing and that 
increase has to go somewhere.

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I can stay in the atmosphere, 
or it can go into different bodies of water

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that become a sink for it.

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You've probably heard of things like corals 
having issues creating their backbone

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structure because of the acidification we're 
seeing in the oceans.

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Well, freshwater also the same equation 
applies.

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00:16:56,510 --> 00:16:59,510
She says there's not a lot of research yet 
about what's happening with freshwater

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00:16:59,510 --> 00:17:03,310
acidification in Lake Huron and how that 
might affect the shipwrecks.

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00:17:03,310 --> 00:17:09,070
We don't really know how that might then lead 
to potential stress or deterioration of those

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00:17:09,070 --> 00:17:13,150
heritage sites. On top of that, 
there's not a lot of work or research looking

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00:17:13,150 --> 00:17:19,950
into how acidification could impact wood or 
metal structures that have been underwater.

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One of the great reasons we have these 
wonderful sites is because it's cold and it's

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stable where they're located.

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But if those environmental conditions start 
to change,

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it could also change how they're preserved.

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So what I do is I read the tilt of the buoy, 
and it tells me which way the wind will blow

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the boat over the wreck.

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Okay. So, J-Roc. Okay.

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Right here.

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00:17:49,740 --> 00:17:52,420
Yes, sir. Yeah, I'm gonna go.

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I'm gonna go around and then come back.

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00:17:55,060 --> 00:17:56,540
Okay. I'm gonna go starboard.

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00:17:56,900 --> 00:17:59,540
Yeah. All right. It's gonna be starboard.

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00:17:59,980 --> 00:18:04,020
Starboard grip. I'm going to go low and go 
around and then come back and get blown onto

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00:18:04,020 --> 00:18:05,820
it. Roger.

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That's captain Matt Southwell with his 
deckhand and friend John Lacrosse,

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00:18:10,860 --> 00:18:12,580
who goes by the nickname J-Roc.

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Captain Matt is at the helm of the Lady 
Michigan.

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It's a glass bottomed boat that visits some 
of the shipwrecks a little farther out from

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00:18:18,700 --> 00:18:21,780
shore. Jody and I joined him for a tour 
before we head home.

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My name is Captain Matt.

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00:18:23,500 --> 00:18:24,860
I am your captain today.

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00:18:24,900 --> 00:18:26,460
Captain Matt grew up up here.

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00:18:26,500 --> 00:18:29,620
I've been diving these wrecks since I was a 
kid, so I've always been in love with the

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00:18:29,620 --> 00:18:31,980
wrecks and our shipwreck history.

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00:18:32,020 --> 00:18:35,820
He says he started diving on a wreck called 
the Shamrock outside his aunt and uncle's

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00:18:35,820 --> 00:18:37,420
house when he was nine.

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00:18:37,420 --> 00:18:39,940
And then when we hit it, 
it was like, oh, what is that in front of me?

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00:18:39,980 --> 00:18:41,700
You know, it spooked, 
it spooks you.

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00:18:41,740 --> 00:18:46,420
It really does. The first time when you're I 
don't know if it does that to everybody,

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00:18:46,420 --> 00:18:49,220
but it kind of creeps you out because it used 
to be a living,

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00:18:49,620 --> 00:18:53,180
working vessel, you know, 
and you automatically think people died on

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00:18:53,180 --> 00:18:55,300
this even though no one died on that wreck at 
all.

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00:18:56,020 --> 00:18:58,980
But before he was a captain, 
he went to Hollywood.

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00:18:59,140 --> 00:19:01,820
Back at my old life, I lived in Hollywood.

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00:19:01,860 --> 00:19:02,900
Yeah. And I was an actor.

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00:19:02,900 --> 00:19:04,460
I was in a couple of TV shows.

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00:19:05,100 --> 00:19:08,100
There's only three reasons a person gets rid 
of a vehicle. One,

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00:19:08,100 --> 00:19:11,740
they sell it. Two, they ruin it in order to 
bilk the insurance company,

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00:19:12,260 --> 00:19:15,180
or three, they destroy it to hide something.

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00:19:16,980 --> 00:19:18,740
What do you think my son is trying to hide?

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00:19:21,140 --> 00:19:22,380
I better find that jeep, 
Mr.

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00:19:22,380 --> 00:19:22,820
Evans.

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00:19:23,860 --> 00:19:28,900
And really, when I left the music business 
and the acting profession and moved back from

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00:19:28,900 --> 00:19:34,090
Hollywood to here. I knew I had to do 
something that had the same amount of passion

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00:19:34,090 --> 00:19:40,290
that I had for that stuff in the arts and the 
lake and the wrecks is definitely where my

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00:19:40,290 --> 00:19:44,370
passion lies. And this job was the corridor 
toward that.

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00:19:44,370 --> 00:19:47,730
But he says being a captain is still a 
dangerous job.

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00:19:48,210 --> 00:19:51,610
Being a captain on the Great Lakes is you 
have to respect them.

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00:19:51,610 --> 00:19:59,450
You have to understand that these are inland 
seas and can turn ordinary real quick.

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00:19:59,930 --> 00:20:03,290
There's a reason there's wrecks out here. 
These lakes have to be respected.

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00:20:03,290 --> 00:20:04,730
They're extremely dangerous.

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00:20:04,890 --> 00:20:08,050
When I worked in the Arctic, 
the thing that shocked me the most was some

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00:20:08,050 --> 00:20:10,170
of these preeminent oceanographers.

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00:20:11,050 --> 00:20:13,690
Like what? They get 20 foot waves on the 
Great Lakes.

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00:20:13,690 --> 00:20:16,170
I'm like, are you out of your mind? I got two 
words for you,

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00:20:16,210 --> 00:20:17,730
Edmund Fitzgerald. Man.

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00:20:17,770 --> 00:20:20,450
Out here, the weather can change the drop of 
a hat.

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00:20:20,890 --> 00:20:24,770
Even mild weather affects how Captain Matt 
guides the Lady Michigan on tours.

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00:20:25,010 --> 00:20:29,010
He and his crew have to monitor slight wind 
and wave changes to make sure the passengers

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00:20:29,010 --> 00:20:32,400
will be able to see the wrecks through the 
boat's transparent bottom.

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00:20:32,400 --> 00:20:34,680
The wrecks and learn. The history is, 
I think,

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00:20:34,680 --> 00:20:37,720
huge to people because it lets them know 
where they came from. And if you don't know

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00:20:37,720 --> 00:20:40,240
where you came from, how do you know where 
you're going?

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00:20:41,520 --> 00:20:44,760
Give yourself a pat on the back because you 
just survived Shipwreck Alley.

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00:20:46,240 --> 00:20:47,040
Thank goodness.

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00:20:50,520 --> 00:20:53,920
There are still about a hundred shipwrecks 
that remain hidden in the depths here in

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00:20:53,920 --> 00:20:55,520
Shipwreck Alley in Thunder Bay.

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00:20:55,800 --> 00:21:00,240
Despite all the explorers, 
researchers, and even former Hollywood actors

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00:21:00,240 --> 00:21:03,720
who spend their days devoted to their 
preservation and discovery,

362
00:21:04,240 --> 00:21:08,000
in a lot of ways, the Great Lakes really are 
like our loved ones who remain partial

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00:21:08,000 --> 00:21:12,280
mysteries to us. To know them better, 
to understand their pasts.

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00:21:12,520 --> 00:21:15,000
We just have to stay close and keep digging.

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00:21:19,680 --> 00:21:23,760
Next time on Beyond the Shore, 
Michigan Public's Dustin Dwyer takes us

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00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:25,720
surfing on Lake Michigan.

367
00:21:25,760 --> 00:21:27,200
It was mostly surfer in Florida.

368
00:21:27,200 --> 00:21:30,920
And you came up here. And what did you think 
when people first mentioned that you could

369
00:21:30,920 --> 00:21:31,680
surf out here.

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00:21:31,720 --> 00:21:34,720
I thought they were kind of stupid, 
honestly. It looked it looked really bad, and

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00:21:34,720 --> 00:21:38,080
I thought, no way they're having fun out 
there. But they definitely are.

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00:21:38,080 --> 00:21:42,400
So we'll hear why surfers are especially 
drawn to Lake Michigan.

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00:21:50,200 --> 00:21:53,000
Jodi Westrick and I reported and produced 
this episode.

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00:21:53,240 --> 00:21:55,160
Vincent Duffy was our main editor.

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00:21:55,360 --> 00:21:58,400
Dustin Dwyer and Jodi Westrick also 
contributed edits.

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00:21:58,720 --> 00:22:01,640
Special thanks to Meredith Leoniak and Randy 
cast.

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00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:05,400
Support for the production of this podcast 
was made possible by the Charles Stewart Mott

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00:22:05,400 --> 00:22:08,080
Foundation as part of its Great Lakes News 
Collaborative.

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Music by blue Dot sessions.

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00:22:10,880 --> 00:22:14,960
I'm Rebecca Williams. Beyond the shore is a 
production of Michigan Public.

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00:22:15,120 --> 00:22:18,720
You can find all of our podcasts at Michigan 
public.org slash.