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Theme Music: [Music.]

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Jane: This is But Why: A Podcast
for Curious Kids from Vermont

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Public. I'm Jane Lindholm. On
this show, we take questions

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from curious kids all over the
world--just like you--and we

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find answers. I know I'm
supposed to be focused on work

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right now, but it's lunch time
when I'm making this episode and

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I'm feeling really hungry. What
am I feeling hungry for, you

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might wonder. Why thanks for
asking. I'm feeling hungry for

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tacos! Good thing that in this
episode we're headed to a

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taqueria. A taqueria is a
restaurant or food stand that

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makes and sells tacos. Tacos
originated in Mexico, but

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they're popular all over the
world, and a lot of you have

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sent us questions about this
popular and ever-evolving food.

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So to learn more and get some
answers to your preguntas

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deliciosas, I went to Austin,
Texas to talk with two people

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who know a lot about tacos.

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Edgar Rico: My name is Edgar
Rico. I am the chef and co owner

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here at Nixta Taqueria in
Austin, Texas.

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Sara Mardanbigi: Hey, y'all I am
Sarah Mardanbigi. I am the other

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half of Nixta Taqueria, and I do
all of our operations.

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Jane: All right, let's talk
tacos. We have a lot of taco

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questions from kids.

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Eleni: My name is Eleni, and I
am seven years old, and I live

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in Lakewood, Ohio. Who first
made tacos?

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Ben: My name is Ben. I am six
years old. I live in Ithaca, New

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York. Who invented tacos?

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Audrey: My name is Audrey. I'm
nine years old. I live in

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Cambridge, Massachusetts. Who
first made tacos?

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Jane: Where did tacos come from?

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Jane: A tortilla is an essential
part of a taco. Now we don't

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Edgar Rico: This is a very
hotly-debated topic, actually.

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But from what researchers do
say, there's kind of two ways

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know exactly when people started
eating tacos, but Edgar says the

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that tacos kind of were
invented. I mean, one of them,

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definitely, for sure, was that
the native people, the

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Mesoamericans that were living
in Mexico, so like Aztecs miners

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essence of a taco, that corn
tortilla filled with some kind

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that were living there, they
used to eat a lot of they

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of meat or vegetable, has long
been a staple in Mesoamerica.

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weren't necessarily, maybe
called a taco, but they were

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eating a round disk made of corn
tortilla, essentially.

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That's a historical region that
encompassed parts of Mexico and

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Central America. The Aztec
people were eating corn

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tortillas, ground up corn that's
been turned into a dough and

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then flattened out, for
thousands of years. And Edgar

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points out that many people
think the word taco comes from--

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Edgar Rico: the native language
called Nahuatl, which is spoken

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by Aztec people.

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Jane: But another idea is that
tacos as we know them today are

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more recently tied to the late
1800s.

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Edgar Rico: There was a lot of
mining that was happening in

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Mexico, and a lot of the miners
who would work would get these

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corn-filled tortillas, and they
would fill them with a little

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guiso, so to speak, or like a
little braised meat, is what we

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call it, guiso in Spanish. They
would take the couple of these

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with them as a little lunch, and
they would go work the mines.

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And, you know, a taco is a nice
kind of package in a meal. It's

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all wrapped up, and you can take
it with you, and it's

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transportable. And these guys
would eat these throughout the

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day, you know, they would maybe
stop for a little break, have a

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little taco, and be on their
way. The first published recipe

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they do say was in the early
1800s and when there was a

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recipe in that it did say the
taco, and that original recipe

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had corn tortilla filled with
like a chile verde filling.

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Jane: How did tacos come to the
United States if they originated

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in Mexico?

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Edgar Rico: Well, I would say
tacos originally came in

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California through the miners
that were mining there. They

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took that same idea, we can have
tacos here too, as we're working

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on these mines. Because at that
time, also too, California was

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Mexico.

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Jane: Large parts of the western
United States used to be part of

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Mexico. This includes
California, Texas, New Mexico,

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Utah, Nevada and parts of
Colorado, Oklahoma, Kansas and

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Wyoming. They became a part of
the United States after the

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Mexican American War in 1848.
But it wasn't until more than

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100 years later, in the 1960s,
that tacos became really, really

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popular all over the US.

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Edgar Rico: Tacos in
particularly spread like

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wildfire, and the idea of tacos
became a mainstream revolution

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throughout the US was actually
in a little town in San

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Bernardino, the same town
actually where another iconic

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brand that we all probably know,
called McDonald's, started. And

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there was a guy there named Glen
Bell, aka the founder of Taco

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Bell. He originally had a fast
food joint, a place called

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Bell's Burgers, where he used to
sell hamburgers. But as

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McDonald's was happening down
the road, he quickly realized

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that maybe the hamburger was not
the route that he should take.

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And ironically enough, there was
a place very close to him, a

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world famous now place in taco
history called Mitla Cafe. They

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were making a little hard shell
taco, where they would fry a

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corn tortilla. They would put a
little bit of ground beef,

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shredded lettuce, little tomato,
a little bit of shredded cheese

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on top. And Glen Bell used to
eat these things every night and

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would try and take a crack at
figuring out how to how to make

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this. And eventually, I guess,
the owner of Mitla Cafe invited

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him into the kitchen one day and
was like, "Hey, I'm going to

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show you, because you keep
coming in here every day and

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eating these things." And
eventually he learned how to do

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it. And then Mr. Glen Bell
decided to take this to his own

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establishment and make a fast
food restaurant called Taco Bell

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that we all know. But yeah,
tacos, after Glen Bell got his

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hands on it, it would never be
the same.

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Connor: Hi. My name's Connor.
I'm eight years old. I live in

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Winnipeg, Manitoba, and my
question is, why are there soft

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shells and hard shells, and what
are they made of?

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Jane: This has to do with the
crispiness of the tortilla. The

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crispy fried tortillas make for
hard shell tacos you find at

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fast food chains like Taco Bell
and in the grocery store.

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Edgar Rico: I think the idea for
what most Americans think of

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tacos is actually that hard
shell taco. But you know, it's

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the evolution of the taco, you
know.

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Jane: Edgar says those hard
shell tacos are an American

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invention. Traditionally, in
Mexico, tortillas tend to be

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soft. We'll talk more about that
in a little bit. But food is

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fascinating because it's always
changing and reflecting how our

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cultures are changing. As people
move from one place to another,

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they bring the foods that they
grew up with. But sometimes you

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have to switch things up a bit
and use ingredients that are

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more easily available where you
are now. Sometimes, especially

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if you open up a restaurant, you
make changes to make the dish

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more approachable to local
customers. Think about other

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foods that are really popular in
the United States that

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originated elsewhere, like
pizza. People coming into the

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United States as immigrants
brought along their favorite

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regional dishes, and then they
blended them with the

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ingredients, like tomatoes, that
were available in their new

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home. And so our food is always
changing and adapting. Sarah

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says tacos followed a similar
path.

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Sara Mardanbigi: Taco Tuesday,
that never used to be a thing.

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There's different foods feel
very unfamiliar or scary, but

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then they become sort of the
fabric of that culture over

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time. For a while, Japanese
food, Korean food, there was a

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stigma around them, and the same
thing with Mexican food, and now

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tacos are a part of that
culture. It's burgers, pizza and

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tacos. It's now in the American
lexicon of food, which is kind

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of crazy.

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Jane: Now that we're up to the
present day. Let's talk about

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what a taco is and isn't. Turns
out, there's a lot of debate.

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Kashton: My name is cash, dine,
and I'm six years old, and I

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live in Kalamazoo, Michigan, and
I'm in first grade. And why do

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tacos have sauce?

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Edgar Rico: To make them more
delicious, more than anything.

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If we're looking at like a basic
street taco, in essence, the

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foundation of it is the
tortilla, your filling--and it

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doesn't always necessarily have
to be meat. It can be

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vegetables. One of my favorite
tacos in the world is actually

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my mom's rajas con crema, which
is a simple dish of roasted

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chilies with a little bit of
cheese and like a little bit of

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heavy cream, all mixed together.
It's delicious. But when you're

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adding your salsa to your taco,
that, for me, it's the part that

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kind of adds that little magic,
adds that little bit of jazz to

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your taco. And it's nice
because, you know, most

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taquerias that you go to, they
will let you kind of choose

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whether it's how spicy do you
want it? Do you like salsas that

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are a little more bold and
smokiness? Or do you want

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something that's a lot fresher,
like an avocado salsa, or like a

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guacamole per se? That's just
the personalization, the

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customization of the taco for
you. That's kind of the fun part

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for me about the tacos.

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Sara Mardanbigi: And some people
don't even put salsa on there.

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Like it's a choose your own
adventure. If you're like, I'm a

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meat and potatoes guy and I just
want the tortilla, the meat,

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maybe some onions on top of it,
like, you can do that too. You

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won't be judged for the way that
you build your taco, because it

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is a very personal thing. So go
for it. We're here to support

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it. We're here to support the
taco in every shape and form.

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Jane: So the key is we listen
and we don't judge.

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Faye: Hi, my name is Leah. I'm
five years old, and I live in

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Winnipeg, Manitoba. What kind of
meat do you put in tacos?

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Jane: Now you both said you can
have whatever you want in your

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taco. But can you list off some
of the popular meats and types

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of meats and ways that meat is
cooked in tacos, just to start

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getting our mouths watering?

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Edgar Rico: Absolutely. So I
would say in America, the four

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most popular meats ordered on a
taco, one of them is probably

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going to be the one I feel like
that everyone knows, which is

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carne asada. Carne asada is
traditionally a northern style

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of making meat in which people
in the north of Mexico will just

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get some really great beef, and
they'll just literally, simply

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marinate it, hit it with a
little salt, and grill it over

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and open fire, chop it up, put
it onto a tortilla, and voila,

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carne asada taco. And then
another taco style that has a

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lot of cool history to it is the
al pastor taco. The al pastor

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taco means the shepherd's taco.
And this was actually an

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invention that was brought over
by the Lebanese people who

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immigrated over to Mexico in the
late 1800s they actually used to

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make a little shawarma. But
then, you know, a lot of the

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clientele of Mexican people were
there wanted something a little

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more spicy, and they didn't
actually like lamb as much, so

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they wanted to maybe use another
protein that was more suitable

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for their palate. So they
transitioned to pork.

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Eventually, that evolved to
where we've gotten now, to the

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modern day al pastor taco, which
then somehow, I don't know where

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exactly in the history, but
pineapple was added to the taco,

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and it has become an iconic
street food all throughout

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Mexico and the US.

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And then I would say the third
most popular style is probably

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going to be carnitas. Carnitas
is also a regional style of taco

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making, or meat making,
typically found in the state of

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Michoacan. And with that, you
take just pork, literally tender

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and falling off the bone. And
the last one, I would say, also,

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is barbacoa. That's another
very, very popular style of meat

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making that's also traditionally
found in the North, but

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specifically it comes from a
place called Texcoco. You build

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a big fire pit underneath the
earth, at least like five to six

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feet, generally, is what you
want to give yourself. But after

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you build this hole, you then
line it with a bunch of bricks,

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and then you make a big, big,
big fire. And then after that

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fire burns down, and you just
have a bed of embers, you then

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add in your pot with your meat
in it, and then you bury it, and

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you let it cook overnight for
about 10 to 12 hours, and the

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next day, you have a delicious,
delicious treat in front of you,

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which is called barbacoa.

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Jane: But if you're not a big
lover of meat, there are still

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lots of different types of tacos
you might really like. In

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coastal regions of Mexico, for
example, you'll find fish and

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seafood tacos. And there are
also many types of tacos that

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are vegetarian.

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Sara Mardanbigi: There's
something called hoja santa,

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which is this sort of like
anisey, kind of smoky herb that

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grows that they use a lot.
There's a lot of different

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applications, like with squash,
with pumpkins, with mushrooms,

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and thinking about like the
pre-Hispanic side of Mexico,

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there were a lot more vegetable
forward dishes. So for any

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vegetarians or vegans out there,
you can make still a really

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beautiful and delicious taco.

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Jane: Yum. I am salivating just
hearing about all of these

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delicious taco types. Coming up,
we'll talk about why tortillas,

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and especially corn, tortillas,
are such an important part of

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Mexican cuisine. Stay tuned.

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BREAK: BREAK

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Jane: I'm Jane Lindholm. Today
on But Why, we're talking all

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things tacos. We've learned
about some of the most popular

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meat-based taco fillings: carne
asada, al pastor, carnitas and

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barbacoa. We've also talked
about salsa, the sauce. But if

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we're talking about tacos, we
have to talk about the tortilla.

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After all, the tortilla is what
holds everything together. I

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mentioned earlier that
traditionally in Mexico,

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tortillas are soft and round and
made with flour or corn, but

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people have been making
tortillas with corn for much

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longer than with flour, and
that's because corn is a native

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vegetable to Mexico, whereas
wheat, which is what flour is

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made of, isn't. At Nixta
Taqueria, where our guests Edgar

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Rico and Sarah Mardanbigi work,
they are sticking with corn.

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Sara Mardanbigi: There's a
phrase called "sin mais no hay

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pais," which means without corn,
there's, you know, there's not a

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country, there's not a culture.
It's a huge part of the culture

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in Mexico. It's part of the DNA.
They said that was part of the

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first civilizations there. It's
how it sustained them.

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Jane: Sin mais no hay pais.
Without corn, there's no

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country. Wow. That gives you a
sense of how important corn is

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to Mexican culture and cuisine.
But for corn to become a

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tortilla, it first needs to go
through an ancient process

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called nixtamalization. That's a
really big word.

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Edgar Rico: Nixtamalization is a
word that sounds very daunting,

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but it's just a word for
essentially the science and the

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magic of what happens to corn
for you to create a corn

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tortilla. You can't have corn
tortilla without nixtamalizing

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corn and the process in which
you break down this corn to get

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you a corn tortilla starts with
you getting some really

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beautiful dried corn, preferably
heirloom.

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Jane: And heirloom basically
means an older species or genus

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or type of a vegetable or an
animal or a plant.

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Edgar Rico: Absolutely. Yeah. So
in Mexico, specifically, there

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are over 30 varieties of corn
that are native to Mexico, and

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they can come in all sorts of
different vast colors, from

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green, purple, red. You then add
this corn to some water that's

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boiling, and inside of this
water, you're going to add the

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secret magical ingredient called
cal. Cal, essentially, is a

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derivative of limestone, and
you're gonna actually let it

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cook for about 30 to 45 minutes,
and then after cooking the corn

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in this boiling water, you
actually let it sit, and you let

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it sit overnight and soak in
this solution for about 10 to 12

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hours. And that's, as it's
soaking, the magic of

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nixtamalization is happening.
And essentially, with

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nixtamilization, it's gonna help
break down this corn for you to

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actually be able to digest it
better.

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Jane: The human body isn't very
good at digesting the outer

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layer of a corn kernel, which is
why, if you have corn on the cob

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for dinner, it'll mostly pass
right through your digestive

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system untouched (which you
already know if you listen to

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our recent poop episode). But
nixtamilization changes the

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chemical structure of the corn
and makes it easier for our

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bodies to digest.

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Edgar Rico: So the magic of
nixtamalization helps unlock

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00:17:53,580 --> 00:17:57,060
corn's fullest potential. So it
unlocks all the natural

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nutrients that are in within
corn. It also activates the

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00:18:00,300 --> 00:18:03,840
natural glutens and starches
that are within the corn for you

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00:18:03,840 --> 00:18:07,890
to be able to help make a corn
tortilla. In essence, that is

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00:18:07,890 --> 00:18:11,910
kind of the magic of how
nixtamalization works and why

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it's a really special thing to
do. But this thing also is

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thousands and thousands of years
old, and it's something that we

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still get to carry on today and
doing this tradition of making

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tortillas. And it's a cool way
to kind of almost, kind of look

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back into the past.

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Sara Mardanbigi: And it's it's a
slow food. It's about 14 to 15

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hours from start to finish, from
the time you take the corn, the

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time you're cooking it, to the
time it sits overnight for about

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00:18:39,210 --> 00:18:43,020
10 hours, til the following
morning, when we actually grind

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the corn into masa. So we have
something inside our restaurant

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called a molino, which is a wet
mill. So it is where you take

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two wheels, and they're made out
of volcanic stones with

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different etchings in there. So
as the corn is going through

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00:18:58,500 --> 00:19:03,120
there, it's slowly grinding
against each other and making

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00:19:03,120 --> 00:19:03,840
that masa.

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Jane: Masa, by the way, is dough
that's made from corn.

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Sara Mardanbigi: So it takes a
lot of time, a lot of skill. The

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00:19:11,440 --> 00:19:15,610
amount of love that goes into it
is it's not a like one-hour

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thing. You have to really take
the time and put some care into

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it.

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Jane: And Sara says this love
and care begins on the farm. A

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00:19:22,780 --> 00:19:26,290
lot of farmers who choose to
grow heirloom varieties of corn

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do it because they care deeply
about the land they cultivate.

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00:19:29,830 --> 00:19:35,530
Faye: My name is Faye. I'm six
years old, and I live in

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00:19:35,530 --> 00:19:40,660
Alameda, California. Why is corn
different colors?

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00:19:40,900 --> 00:19:46,480
Eve: My name is Eve. I am seven
years old. I live in New York.

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00:19:46,510 --> 00:19:51,460
Why are some corn kernels yellow
and some white?

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00:19:52,090 --> 00:19:54,850
Jane: You mentioned corn can
come in many different colors.

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00:19:54,880 --> 00:19:57,310
Why does it come in different
colors?

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00:19:57,880 --> 00:20:01,000
Edgar Rico: There's different
climates and different factors

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00:20:01,000 --> 00:20:04,960
that play into why corn ends up
becoming different colors. So

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one of them is, you know, just
the natural genetics of some of

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these corns, like those 30
varieties are naturally just

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00:20:12,010 --> 00:20:15,850
have these colors that they've
been growing in that fashion for

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00:20:15,850 --> 00:20:20,770
many years. But the climate will
take a big part in that too. So,

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you know, maybe some climates
are a little wetter, and you're

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going to have just a different
hue in terms of the color of the

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corn, but also where it's grown
even. I mean, we happen to grow

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corn right in our backyard,
actually, because we have a big

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farm in our backyard. And last
year, we noticed that some of

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the corn, because we grew two
different varieties, but on this

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00:20:41,770 --> 00:20:45,400
border of where we were growing
some of this purple corn and

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some of this red corn, some of
that corn started fusing

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together. Because the way corn
releases its seeds is through

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the top. When you see like these
little kind of like hairs of

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corn, you'll see that that's
where some of the seeds get

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released into the air.
Sometimes, as it's landing on

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these silks of corn, they'll
just kind of latch onto it, and

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then it'll start taking fold
into the corn, and you'll get

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these really beautiful kind of
cross color of corn that'll be

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purple and yellow, or it might
be like the one that we had that

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was purple and pink.

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Jane: Learning about how
tortillas are made was making me

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00:21:34,420 --> 00:21:37,630
hungry, so I asked Edgar to show
me how they do it at Nixta.

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Edgar Rico: We are here in the
Nixta Taqueria kitchen about to

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00:21:43,180 --> 00:21:49,120
make some tortillas. And what
we're hearing right now is our

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00:21:49,120 --> 00:21:53,830
corn being mixed up. It's been
ground up. We're adding a little

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bit of salt to it, just to give
it a little bit of flavor. I'll

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let you first feel. So it's
gonna feel...

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Jane: Kind of like Play Doh!

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00:22:05,110 --> 00:22:06,970
Edgar Rico: Exactly. That's
exactly what I always tell

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people. You're gonna feel like a
light moisture in your hand as

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00:22:11,830 --> 00:22:14,980
you're kind of moving it around
your hands. And yeah, the

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00:22:14,980 --> 00:22:19,060
texture is very much so like
Play Doh. And then this one in

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00:22:19,060 --> 00:22:22,300
particular, we're adding a
little bit of guajillo chili so

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00:22:22,300 --> 00:22:26,260
we can get a really nice bright
red hue and also a little bit of

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flavor. And at this point, we
are ready to make a corn

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tortilla. And with this machine,
it's gonna help roll your corn.

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It's gonna roll it onto this
roller. And what we're looking

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00:22:42,430 --> 00:22:47,020
for is for it to catch fully,
like so, kind of see how that's

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00:22:47,020 --> 00:22:51,040
catching right now? That's
exactly what we're looking for.

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And now we're going to start
bringing them out like so. And

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then it has three different
layers where we're going to cook

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00:23:03,160 --> 00:23:07,180
our corn tortilla. So this one
on the top is going to be your

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00:23:07,180 --> 00:23:11,050
lowest temperature. The middle
is going to have the medium

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00:23:11,050 --> 00:23:16,090
heat, and the bottom is going to
have the highest heat ratio.

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Boom. It's going to go on
through the bottom, and then

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00:23:21,220 --> 00:23:23,890
it's gonna come out through here
on the bottom.

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Jane: That's now a cooked
tortilla.

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Edgar Rico: Yeah.

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Jane: Cool.

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Edgar Rico: Eat it.

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Jane: Really delicious.

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Edgar Rico: You definitely taste
that flavor. It's so much

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different than a store-bought
corn tortilla.

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Jane: Oh yeah, for sure.

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Edgar Rico: You get, like, all
those really nice, earthy notes

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00:23:43,400 --> 00:23:45,500
and they're nice and soft and
pillowy.

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Jane: They're really lovely.

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Edgar told me they make over a
thousand tortillas every day at

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00:23:52,340 --> 00:23:55,610
Nixta Taqueria. We're going to
post some videos from Nixta's

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kitchen on our Instagram page at
butwhy_kids so you can watch

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00:24:00,380 --> 00:24:04,520
Edgar make a fresh tortilla,
too. Has your idea of a perfect

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00:24:04,520 --> 00:24:08,660
taco changed at all listening to
this episode? What type of taco

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00:24:08,660 --> 00:24:13,130
are you most excited to try
next? We'd love to know! But

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00:24:13,130 --> 00:24:17,600
here's a really controversial
question we have for you: is a

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00:24:17,600 --> 00:24:23,450
taco a sandwich? What do you
think? Have your adult record a

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00:24:23,450 --> 00:24:26,330
video of you telling us whether
you think a taco counts as a

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00:24:26,330 --> 00:24:30,080
sandwich and why or why not.
We'll share videos on our

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00:24:30,080 --> 00:24:34,010
Instagram and YouTube pages. You
can get an adult to help you see

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00:24:34,010 --> 00:24:34,340
them.

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Thanks to Edgar Rico and Sarah
Mardanbigi of Nixta Taqueria in

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Austin, Texas. It was so cool to
visit their restaurant. That's

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00:24:44,680 --> 00:24:48,280
it for this episode. If you have
a question about anything, have

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00:24:48,280 --> 00:24:51,910
an adult record you asking it.
It's easy to do on a smartphone

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00:24:51,910 --> 00:24:55,750
using an app like voice memos.
Then have your adult email it to

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00:24:56,920 --> 00:25:00,670
questions@butwhykids.org. But
Why is produced by Melody

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00:25:00,730 --> 00:25:04,540
Bodette, Sarah Baik and me, Jane
Lindholm, at Vermont Public and

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00:25:04,540 --> 00:25:09,340
distributed by PRX. Our video
producer is Joey Palumbo. Check

401
00:25:09,340 --> 00:25:12,940
out our YouTube series, But Why
bites. We put out a short,

402
00:25:13,030 --> 00:25:17,590
bite-sized video episode every
other Friday. Our theme music is

403
00:25:17,590 --> 00:25:21,220
by Luke Reynolds. We'll be back
in two weeks with an all new

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00:25:21,220 --> 00:25:26,170
episode, until then, stay
curious--and hungry!

